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The old city. South Mumbai is laid out along a narrow finger of land with water on both sides. Colaba sits at the tip, Fort and Ballard Estate above it with the stone offices left from the trading years, and Nariman Point on the reclaimed edge facing the bay. Marine Drive curves for about three kilometres from Nariman Point up to Chowpatty, and the row of street lights along it is still the best view in the city after dark. Malabar Hill rises behind Chowpatty with the Hanging Gardens on top.

Two great railway terminals bookend this area. Churchgate is the end of the Western Line, a fifteen-minute walk from Nariman Point. CSMT on the Central Line is the older of the two, and the building itself is a UNESCO site worth ten minutes of your time even if you are not catching a train. The Aqua Line metro now runs underground from Cuffe Parade up through the whole business district, which means a guest at a Colaba hotel can reach BKC in about half an hour without ever sitting in traffic.

More to see than anywhere else. The Gateway of India and the harbour behind it, the Kala Ghoda quarter with its museums and galleries, Colaba Causeway for shopping, Crawford Market for everything else. Girgaon Chowpatty fills every evening with families and food carts. The Banganga tank on Malabar Hill is close to a thousand years old and almost nobody goes there. Any of them makes a good first hour before the evening moves indoors.

The hotel districts here are Colaba around the Gateway, Nariman Point along the bay, and Marine Drive between them, with a smaller cluster at Cuffe Parade. All three sit within fifteen minutes of each other. From Nariman Point, Bandra is thirty-five to forty-five minutes over the Sea Link, Lower Parel twenty-five, and the airport a full hour. The coastal road has cut the run to Worli down to about twelve minutes, and the Eastern Freeway reaches Chembur in twenty-five. Navi Mumbai is forty minutes over the new sea bridge.

Two very different nights. South Mumbai keeps its own hours. The business district empties completely after eight, so Fort and Nariman Point feel deserted at night while Colaba a kilometre away is still full. Marine Drive is busiest between seven and eleven and stays walkable all night. Chowpatty shuts around midnight. Sunday mornings, with the offices closed and the streets empty, are the most pleasant time in the whole area. Most of our bookings down here run late, and our girls travel in from the western suburbs, so a little notice helps us get the timing right.